I purchased this car in 1972 and only started the major rebuild in 1994. Once the body, engine and gearbox were removed from from the chassis it looked better than expected. I made up new side rails and welded them on after blasting the bare chassis. I decided not to drill the new outriggers until mounting the body. This will allow me to align door gaps withease. the chassis was completely rust proof treated , primed and sprayed with chassis gloss black.
I have used the late TR4 suspension set-up, giving me three degrees castor and with a little engineering mod. zero degrees camber angle. Nylatron bushes were used on upper and lower wishbone pivots. All new ball joints and angled trunnions were fitted, along with gas adjustable Spax and 390 Ib. springs. Lower spring pans were retained as these differ from TR ones; they have cut outs to clear the suspension turrets.
Steering box rebuilt, all internals the same as TR2, but inner shaft much longer. I drilled a new oil filler hole further up the column to enable fill the box with oil. It also keeps the top ball race lubricated.
TR6 disc brakes up front and 10" Girling rears. This is complemented with Alfin drums and Girling axle. Aeroquip stainless steel flex pipes and Kunifer 10 brakes pipes all round. I fitted Mintex high performance pads and asbestos-free material bonded to rear shoes; that should slow it down. I may fit a servo later. Handbrake cables were Morris 1000 saloon ones less two inches off inner cable and recrimped ends. They even have grease nipples fitted and look the part.
A fully balanced and lightened 86mm engine build with fast road cam. HS6 carbs and 4A inlet manifold used but I found they fouled the steering column. I made up shims to raise engine mounting on the right hand side. I also shimmed up the gearbox rear mount and this was enough to clear the column. I picked up a TR6 overdrive 2/3/4 gearbox and fitted an angle drive to the speedo cable take off and this gives the cable a much better run along the chassis.
After searching for years I picked up a Girling axle with 10 inch drums and 3.7 final drive. I may fit 4.1 or 4.3 later for competition use. I found that by moving the backplates round one hole it makes the handbrake cables line up better. New U bolts were made up to suit the larger diameter axle tubes with lugs welded on for anti-tramp bar location.
SAH exhaust manifold and straight through single box system fitted with only slight modifications to clear chassis and give maximum ground clearance.
Doors stripped, blasted, repaired and skins made up in alloy. Sills also made up in alloy. Floors made up in 18 gauge steel. Rear crossmembers always rust out, so an improved design will be used and if it's a success I will pass on the drawings to Cyril Harvey.
Many thanks to Allan Gibb for the article